Sunny Sarajevo

The road from Jajce to Sarajevo took us through many small villages. Houses were either old and crumbling, unfinished but inhabitated, or empty and delapedated. Seeing those still living in BiH's rural areas was like stepping back in time. People tend to their land in a backbreaking manner, automated equiptment is nowhere to be seen, and every inch of land is used to grow crops. Cars are very old, so the sight of two foreigners on a huge packed-up motorbike was usually met with awe. We received many looks, nods, smiles and waves along the way, and even caught some taking pictures of the bike.

Sarajevo is a kaleidoscope of culture, history and religion. The scars of the war are still visible, for example in the bullet perforated old buildings. As the country's capital it's no surprise that Sarajevo is more cosmopolitan and vibrant than other parts of the country, but on a more modest scale than we are generally used to. In this city, especially in the old town, there is a beautiful image of East meets West, shaped by the country's turbulent past of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, Yugoslavian and Independant rule. Some quarters may quite easily be mistaken for somewhere in Turkey or the likes. Many restaurants and cafe's do not serve alcohol, although we're unsure if it's due to licensing or religious reasons. However, coffee is served in abundance.

During our stay we have indulged in some fine local food and drink. We have become great fans of Burek, filo pastry stuffed with delicious fillings (meat, cheese, spinach/cheese, onion, etc). Cevapi, seasoned mince-meat 'fingers' served in somun bread and with kajmak butter, are great for a tasty snack or cheap meal. Traditional Bosanski coffee is an experience in itself, as the coffee is served in a beautiful decanter which you pour into a small cup. Sugar and turkish delight balance out the strong, thick coffee. Finally, Sarajevsko pivo is a smooth and thirst-busting local beer.